July 27th 2006. SCR start early and reach Luhansk by late evening. There are further opportunities to test their haggling skills on policemen throughout the day.
Sam is pulled over early and is sold a piece of paper to put in the CC's windscreen for 10 dollars (down from 25), the purpose of which remained unclear. Later, Rich is flagged down for illegally crossing a white line whilst making a RH turn. The two officers ask them to pose for photographs before marching them to a police station and demanding a 150 dollar fine. On the rare occasions that there are road markings, it is Ukranian custom to ignore them, so SCR simply refuse to pay (merrily chirping 'nyeet, nyeet, nyeet, nyeet'), and are eventually discharged in exchange for a £1-worth of pen knife.
Aware of decreasing rearward visibility and increasing diesel smells, SCR pull over by a lovely river to investigate. Diesel is being ejected at an alarming rate from a metal feed-pipe from the tank, which has been rubbing on the sagging anti-roll bar. The offending section is hacked off and replaced with flexi-pipe, a task that leaves Sam looking as smelling as though he has spent a large night in an oil refinery.
In Luhansk, a charming couple lead SCR to a hostel in what they are convinced is some sort of sinister kabutz for people of the night, but turns out to be a trade fruit market. For some reason, the woman in charge tells them to stay quiet and lock the door, and mutters something about the bathroom which is interpreted later when both hot and cold water shuts off mid-ablution at 11pm.
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